Centerstagechicago.com; Venue Review: Darwin's

Published on Centerstagechicago.com, October 2005.

Darwin's

So, in case you didn't get it from the giant fish on the Darwin's sign, the theme here is evolution. That concept plays out bar-food-with-a-twist, and recurs throughout the menu headings ("In the Beginning") and ambience. The two-room exposed-brick bar and grill also contains an old-school Nintendo machine, a jukebox, several booths and a bar TV that played the Sox game on low volume when I visited. This comfy, neighborhood spot reopened in September 2005 after a seven-month hiatus, and is equally comfortable for an informal dinner or an evening drink with friends.

The service is attentive and prompt and the food is surprisingly diverse for a bar & grill menu, with some tasty seasonal touches and an eclectic beer menu. Standard bar fare like nachos and cheese ($5.95) are accompanied by white beans, a spinach tortilla and creme fraiche, and the "primordial soup" ($2.95) is a delicious and subtle blend of pumpkin and jalapeno. The wedge of fried brie ($7.95) is by far the best appetizer, served with a small salad and bits of bread. It is vegetarian-friendly, with a veggie burger ($8.50) and penne primavera ($10.95) offered alongside a bacon and brie burger ($9.95) and "cow pie" (homemade meatloaf) for ($9.95). One odd note: Instead of ringing a bell when a meal is ready, the kitchen staff sounds a contraption that sounds alarmingly like a honking duck (or a person with a head cold). If that kind of thing shakes you up, I'd advise a seat in the well-lit front room instead.

Reviewed By: Gretchen Kalwinski