Published on CenterstageChicago.com, November 2005
Autumn Desserts
How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
Gretchen Kalwinski
What's not to love about the fall? It beckons us with the productive "back to school" feeling, no matter how old we are. It provides lovely foliage. It harkens the bustling holiday season. It has the brisk, crisp pace and temperature that allows for lots of running around and socializing before the deadeningly slow, shut-in and lethargic five months of winter-death kick in. (Don't try to deny it; Chicago's cold weather season is actually FIVE MONTHS long). As fall weather gears up in Chicago, most of us start craving the hearty fruits of the season; squash soup, pumpkin pie and that feathered bird. Oh, and those sumptuous desserts with lovely seasonal ingredients like walnut, fig, pears and apple...Here are the best of the comforting bunch.
Alliance Bakery and Cafe
File under: Drinkable dessertsAutumn Desserts
How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
Gretchen Kalwinski
What's not to love about the fall? It beckons us with the productive "back to school" feeling, no matter how old we are. It provides lovely foliage. It harkens the bustling holiday season. It has the brisk, crisp pace and temperature that allows for lots of running around and socializing before the deadeningly slow, shut-in and lethargic five months of winter-death kick in. (Don't try to deny it; Chicago's cold weather season is actually FIVE MONTHS long). As fall weather gears up in Chicago, most of us start craving the hearty fruits of the season; squash soup, pumpkin pie and that feathered bird. Oh, and those sumptuous desserts with lovely seasonal ingredients like walnut, fig, pears and apple...Here are the best of the comforting bunch.
Alliance Bakery and Cafe
Alliance Bakery has been pleasing sweet tooths for more than 80 years, and when I was a kid, my family used to drive in from Indiana for its Sekacz, a lightly sweetened layer cake with Polish and German roots. With the gentrification of Wicker Park, the Sekacz is no more, but Alliance still carries plenty of Eastern European treats like packzi and rye bread, and stocks several seasonal desserts like pumpkin cupcakes and walnut cranberry bars along with its espresso drinks and sandwiches. Its best autumnal fix, especially if you're on the go, is the pumpkin spice latte ($3.50), which tastes like pumpkin pie and whipped cream melted down into frothy goodness.
Caffe Gelato
File under: For when yer all sweaty
Caffe Gelato offers a more frigid sweet for the times when you're feeling sweaty inside that hat, scarf and woolen coat. Its hazelnut gelato is delightfully thick and creamy...so it's only appropriate that the treat takes on the consistency of extremely thick whipped cream. For god's sake, though, only order one scoop of this stuff ($2.50); I can't even imagine the butterfat content, and the gelato is rich enough to satisfy your sweet tooth for days.
Milk and Honey Cafe
File under: The poverty option
Don't get me wrong: I think mothers are wonderful. Everyone should have one. But as rosy-cheeked maternal types pushing ginormous strollers continue to pack all the tables at the tasty, gourmet-ish Milk and Honey Cafe, I now tend to order carry out. While waiting at the counter, I discovered wonderful pumpkin spice doughnuts for 85 cents. There's no excuse for not checking the doughnut basket to see if any are in stock. They're of the variety that I haven't had since childhood: handmade and covered in crystallized sugar, like my Girl Scout leader used to meticulously deep-fry and serve to us warm. Mmm. These treats taste strongly of nutmeg and brown sugar and hit the spot when paired with a nice cappuccino.
Sweet Mandy B's
File under: Traditional treats
Once I discovered that Lakeview's Sweet Mandy B's made its cupcakes with icing like my grandma used to whip up, I've been a loyal customer. This old fashioned dessert spot delivers traditional Americana desserts, putting autumn on a plate with its wonderful, classic pumpkin pie, spiced ginger cookies with icing and a berry and apple cobbler (Sweet Mandy B's will serve it warm if you ask) that are spectacular. All desserts can be taken away or eaten in the cheerful yellow and white store, and all run $2-$4.
BomBon
File under: A caramel apple a day...
BomBon is a sweet Mexican bakery with equally sweet staff in the Pilsen neighborhood, right across from the famed cafe Jumping Bean. Alongside its gourmet pastries and tarts, BomBon serves up gigantic Granny Smith caramel apples that are crispy and fresh. And don't even say that you can get them closer to home: These are so much better than your average supermarket pre-made caramel apple, and well worth the $2.75 per sticked delight. This is the real deal, folks.
Lula Cafe
File under: Catch this pastry chef here before she goes somewhere you can't afford
Logan Square's Lula Cafe, the go-to spot for seasonal fare with an upscale twist, recently brought on Jane Roberts (formerly of Blackbird) as its pastry chef. She, in turn, has whipped up deliciously subtle options, all around $6-$8, and all in keeping with Lula's theme of organic and in-season fare. Particularly delectable choices are the butter cake with fig and lavender sauce, the poached pears with pear sorbet and the incredibly moist bittersweet chocolate bread pudding, served with a creamy scoop of caramel ice cream that melts in the mouth. The ingredients taste like they've been carefully hand picked, portions are just right and the presentation is true art-on-a-plate. 'Tis nectar of the gods.
Scooter's Frozen Custard
File under: The frozen custard option
Scooter's bills itself as the "only frozen custard in Chicago always made fresh every day from scratch," and it smartly offers an autumn flavor as we move out of berry weather. Though Scooters isn't much to look at with its concrete floors and lime green walls, it has a few tables and some window seating for watching the passersby while licking your custard (or sundae), a treat that's best compared to silky soft-serve ice cream. Scooters' pumpkin custard ($2.50) is particularly scrumptious; not too creamy and with a strong pumpkin and nutmeg flavor.
Berghoff
File under: The traditional option
This legendary downtown German restaurant, popular for workaday lunches, has had years to hone its apple strudel, and the $6 dish is simplicity and perfection at its best. It has a light, flaky crust with ripe fruit and just enough (slightly tart) filling. There are no extraneous spices or garnishes to get in the way, just uncomplicated ingredients completely in balance.
Your neighborhood food mart
File under: The lazy option
If you're feeling lazy or couch-bound, you can go to your neighborhood supermarket or food mart and pick up a pint of the delectable Ben & Jerry's Oatmeal Cookie Chunk Ice Cream (about $3). Cinnamon ice cream says autumn through and through, and this is one of the few easy-to-track-down desserts based around it. Also in the mix are chunks of chocolate and chewy bits of oatmeal raisin cookies. Perfection in cardboard.
Do-It-Yourself
File under: The DIY option
For the homebodies and home-cooks, I recommend this pumpkin custard recipe (compiled from various sources). It takes about 10 minutes to make, requires few ingredients (you should have most of them if you keep a decent pantry), and lets you stay indoors if the weather is nasty. Preheat oven to 350. Combine in mixing bowl: one-and-one-half cups strained pumpkin, two-thirds cup brown sugar, three beaten eggs, one-and-one-half cups scalded milk, one tablespoon cornstarch, one teaspoon each ginger and vanilla, and one-quarter teaspoon each ground cloves and nutmeg. Pour into a buttered baking dish and bake for 45 minutes. Let cool for about 45 minutes. Sprinkle cinnamon to garnish if desired.
